Gorgeous Gulf Island Retreats Soothe your Body and Soul

 by Nancy Snipper

Ever feel the need to heal in a tranquil place where the ocean is before you and the forest surrounds you?   I recently traveled to two islands in British Columbia to stay in two extraordinary bed and breakfasts.  Rooms were remarkable, and breakfasts went beyond the standard of eggs, toast and jam.   Their hosts have talents that help you unwind while cocooning you in comfort and serenity - not to mention the spectacular views you get to enjoy from your own big balcony every day.

Serenity by the Sea

Last year, I suffered a back operation with an unfortunate painful outcome. I needed a retreat where I could self-reflect, distress and reset. The first place I headed for was Serenity by the Sea on Galiano Island.  Luannah Livermore, its owner, is an internationally trained healer, who also happens to be a marvelous baker – among other things.

 

Cottages with rustic charm

 Knowing I like view variation, Luannah offered me the chance to stay in two different fully equipped deluxe cottage-like cabins that nestle in the forest. Lush views greeted me every day until I moved into the main building. Perched high on a rock, this reception area has a stunning upstairs room with floor to ceiling windows and a huge balcony overlooking the sea. I could hear the lapping of waves hitting the rocks.  I slept like a babe.  

Healing treatments

 I looked forward to receiving her healing therapies held in her spacious studio.  After talking about her plan for me, she led me to a bed made off amethyst crystals.  Using an ancient Hawaiian method of treatment and combining it with others. She also uses sound and laser therapies on your body that give off vibration frequencies that actually heal pain.  Indeed, every time, she applied them, my pain diminished. While massaging me for three hours, she continuously sang in the Hawaiian language to a CD playing in the background.   Her 25 years of studying (five with an Elder in Hawaii) includes Lomi Lomi Temple Style. This incorporates traditional Hawaiian prayer, song, life coaching, energy release and deep joint massage and deep breathing.  Body, mind and soul become integrated in her approach. Her hands were remarkably strong; her angelic voice and her directions to breathe deeply at certain key moments during her treatments deepened my relaxation and eradicated kinks.   When it was over, I felt an incredible surge of energy; my body felt renewed.  My spirit picked up.

Having traveled all over the world, Luannah has acquired a vast knowledge of healing therapies which she is eager to share with you.  Personally, I found her guidance to be beneficial.  She helps us locate in ourselves a way to accept and actually love ourselves. Esoteric as it sounds, she revealed that cells respond to good “frequencies” - that the messages we send them profoundly affect our emotions, bodily feelings – and this in turn affects how we relate to others.   She also spoke about embracing both the shade and light parts along with the incongruities that we have in ourselves, and that we can learn to harmonize. She guided me in strategic ways to do this, emphasizing aloha (love). Luannah aims to bring our lives into goodness and love.  “The world needs to be lovingly corrected,” she said, smiling.

I came away from the retreat looking ten years younger.  Most importantly, I learned more about myself - how I was hurting myself by focusing on that which is not productive to my well-being.  Certainly, my pain had greatly diminished; my ankle was stronger, and my walking was steadier. Yes, I still use my cane but not all the time now. Most of all, Luannah gave me a spiritual strategy to deal with pain, and that alone has helped me when a setback arises.

I wanted to linger longer at Serenity by the sea, not just because of her remarkable gifts, but her breakfasts were great! Those raspberry, strawberry crepes and delicate pancakes soaked in home-made caramel and chocolate sauce were out of this world.  I also joined her family for a home-made Peruvian-style barbecue chicken dinner, made by her husband, Juan Carlos.

Visit www.serenitybythesea.com

Email: info@serenitybythesea.com

Salt Spring Island and Armand Heights B and B

Leaving Galiano, I took the two-hour ferry ride to Salt Spring Island. Here the harbor and Ganges town were buzzing with people. Still seeking solitude, I traveled further north to stay at Armand Heights – a B and B located 1000 metres above sea level. My luxurious room gave a panoramic tree-high view of mountain and ocean. I loved it. The grounds comprised almost six acres of gardens with a flourish of over 160 hybrid roses and dozens of fruit trees and herbs that Irina, the Russian owner uses in her breakfast dishes and every meal she loves to cook.

 Irina Floreke, owner of this exquisite property wears many hats: she makes baroque style cakes and raises chickens whose eggs she sells at the Tuesday and Saturday Ganges markets.  She also makes dozens of different flavored fruit wine, using the fruit that grows on her property. Every guest gets a complimentary bottle in their room.  A home-made gourmet breakfast is delivered to each of the four rooms by Irina herself. She’ll even cook dinner for you if you ask her in advance.  Her borscht was brilliant!

 I came to know just how caring Irina is when on my last day I was determined to visit Truckle Park – at least a 30-minute drive from her place.  But I had not rented a car. This park is reputed to be the most beautiful of all the parks on the Gulf Islands. Irina went right to work; she arranged for me to get a ride there with a couple staying in one of the rooms who also wanted to explore this park.

 It was beautiful indeed with its coves and groves of trees that offered a solitary bench for gazing out to the endless blue of sea. She even wanted to know how I would get back and to call her.

Irina even drove me me to the market in Ganges, the main town, and it was here that she dragged me to her hairdresser, insisting that my hair definitely needed cutting. I appreciated Irina’s authenticity and frankness, but her hairdresser was too busy. I think she was more disappointed that I was. Clearly, Irina always puts her guests first. “I love working, but the most important thing for me is my guests. I want them to be very happy here.”  I certainly was.

Salt Spring is beautiful and welcoming.  Musician, Randy Bachman homes here as do many artists and creative if not maverick innovators. Parks, lakes, kayaking and festivals abound. This scintillating island has its own healing magic, and Armand Heights is part of it.

Visit www.armandheights.com

Email: reservations@armandheights.com

WATERFALL RAPTURE, COUNTRY AIR AND CONSTANT CARE

                             

                                         A COCOON FOR SUBLIME RELAXATION

                                                

Nestled alongside the waterfall of the North Missisquoi River, the beauty begins. The setting with its never-ending cascade of scintillating pleasure instantly has its healing effect on all who enter the premises. You can hear and see the watery symphony at every turn.


                 Dip your feet in

 

 Snooze beside it as you stretch out in one of the spa’s riverside hammocks. 
       

                               Listen, watch, breathe it all in!                                                                       

                     

I was so taken with this view, I sat for a good hour just listening to the waterfall and watching the birds dart among the trees.

Unquestionably, one of the Spa Bolton’s most distinguishing features is the harmonious integration of outdoor beauty within the spa’s interior. Take a look at the ceiling over the reception desk. Yes, that is a panel prettified with real moss that’s fed by the humidity from the spa. It’s colourful and enhanced by the wood-covering panels alongside it.  In addition, a  magnificent Medusa, carved from a litchi tree impressively adorns a wall. Fabulous to behold, it reminds us all how nature's growth can be transformed into a work of art. You can't miss  its striking effect, it as you enter the reception area.

No matter where you gaze, the outdoors is ever-present. Inside treatment rooms, it’s not just your body that will be massaged by the view, but your senses as well.

                                A Unique Place for your Massage

Surrender yourself to Spa Bolton’s natural magic, and soon personal epiphanies begin to fill your soul.  How utterly charming and ingenious that a series of adorable yurts is where you receive massages. 

 A flap lifts up over a screened portion so you can hear and see the waterfall. And that’s not all. Overhead, the sky comes into view via a small glass dome. Watch the clouds float by as you lie on your back, and drift into massage heaven. I had a wonderful full-body massage given by Guylaine, and although I had the choice to have it in one of the six bigger open-to-the river, tent-like yurts that were on higher ground, I was perfectly content with the breeze  that sifted in, and the sky above me. It was like a mirage; I was looking at a portion of sky painted by Michelangelo.  But within hours, the pools beckoned. 

                               

                                               Pick your Pool

  Of course Spa Bolton is all about the baths! There’s a kidney shaped swimming pool with a waterfall you can activate with the press of a button. Two really warm Jacuzzis also operate the same way, and let’s not forget about the polar bear pool that you absolutely must use once you spend time in one of the two dry saunas or the steam room.

 Julie Paige, who has been working at the spa since it opened, knows everything there is to know about Spa Bolton’s healing powers. She insisted I do four alternating dunkings between the hot steam room and the “freezing” cold pool to help me with my arthritis. I did it, and for the first time, my knee no longer hurt. I escaped as well into the heated big yurts; there are two.

 

 

    Lie down down on a chair

    or one of the huge floor cushions.

Julie epitomizes the incredible friendliness exuded and the casual ease one feels with the staff.  “No one is a client here; each person is our guest.”

Indeed the hospitality of this homey spa was what I think I most enjoyed about the personal side of things, aside from my treatments.

I had an hour-long facial, masterfully given by Véronique.  She used Ella Baché’s tomato-based products from France. They felt divine.Véronique gently applied at least 10 different hands-on-my face applications. The mask which gave me a noticeable after-glow consisted of macadamia nuts, cranberry, camphor, and tomato. Best of all, while leaving it there to work its healing effect, Veronique began applying cream on my arms and hands while rubbing them. That’s a facial with a highly soothing added touch.

 

                                  Changing the face of my feet

I had an hour-and-a-half pedicure that was foot fabulous. Twelve steps were needed to get my feet into silky smooth shape. This included a UV lamp to solidify the gel nail polish and an exfoliant that went knee high – not to mention the zillion other things she applied to my feet along with massaging them one exceptional part included putting my feet in plastic bags filled with very warm melted paraffin wax. 

                                                                  

Véronique applied nail polish, appropriately named Elite 99, that actually changes colour depending on how hot or cool your body temp is. Now how cool – or should I say hot is that!!! From fuchsia for heat to orange for cool, my toes became my very own thermometer.

Truth is, you should stay here as long as you can. Fortunately, Spa Bolton is open until10 pm.  It is so romantic at night. 
Enjoy the many treatments and idyllic natural surroundings the area offers.

                                              

                            The Villa

I spent three nights housed in Spa Bolton’s 4-bedroom spacious country villa. 

You can book the entire villa for your family and friends. If you’re alone, common areas, including the two bathrooms, ground floor living room, dining room and kitchen will be shared with newly arrived overnight guests. But it is so big, it’s easy to find your own privacy. My room was lovely, and the bathroom next door was ever-so roomy.

 

 

                 

                                        Outside was equally splendid

                                                                                     

                                           A Site for a Visionary

Owner, Claude Provost junior, son of the late great hockey legend who played for the Montreal canadiens, is a man of vision. He saw the waterfall and fell in love with  the site. Formerly a mill sat here, (the waterfall reminds us of this). Claude was set on keeping everything natural when he began building his spa. Ingeniously, solar energy acts as a geothermal station for the building and water heating. In 2001, Spa Bolton was opened, and soon word spread about this unique place built with heart by a conscientious man keen on creating a healing environment. 

How lucky for us! I left wearing a smile that perhaps resembled the enormous wall mural that greets you at reception.

Spa Bolton offers a specified series of treatments and great packages that also include overnight stays. It’s open every day of the year, winter too!

Only an hour-and-a-half easy drive from Montreal,

The address: 883, route 245 south, Bolton-Est.

CLICK HERE FOR THEIR WEBSIGHT.

You can also call them at (1-888)944-4772.

Although Spa Bolton has wraps, snacks, soup and cookies, full meals are not served here. Julie suggested I dine at Auberge du Petit Randonneur in Potton. Only six minutes away by car, this one-of-a-kind dining hall is akin to a Quebec-style Downton Abbey. You can even sleep in one of its six expansive rooms, including a suite. Historical in feel, and resembling an enormous dance hall, the place possesses 140 acres of pastoral views. Hosts, Louise and Serge are about the nicest people you can ever find. They made me feel so at home, I spent over three hours there just talking and being given a tour of this impressive old-world mansion. Staying here did cross my mind.

My candlelight dinner with Serge and Louise

Together the couple cook up hearty home-cooked meals. They even make their own beans. I had the most tender fillet Mignon that Serge served me. His coup de grace is the sauce he makes from scratch with onion, and broth from the beef and more. I told him he should bottle it and sell it. He did bottle it, in fact, handing me lots to take home with me. How generous is that?  I liked the place so much, including their affable company, I went back for their big breakfast the next day. The huge portions of egg, sausage, ham toast, beans listed on the menu as a brunch breakfast hit the spot. In fact, every Sunday, Louise and Serge serve the best brunch this side of Bolton. Their home-made strawberry compost is to die!

Call to reserve: (450) 292-4444.

www.aubergedupetitrandonneur.com

Another place Julie recommended was le Côte in Eastman, about 12 kilometres from Spa Bolton. Bustling busy, popular and noisy, this happening place is known for its meat, fish  and chips, mussels and innovative dishes. I ordered a bavette (flank steak) and a terrific tataki.

The parsnip soup was creamy good too.

I loved the barbecue popcorn with melted Parmesan cheese that was served in a little bag you before your main meal arrives. 

 

                                                        The crème caramel  was a taste treat.

Here is the website:  www.lecote.ca

                          

              

                                                      

A STUNNING LAKESIDE HAVEN IN QUEBEC... RIPPLECOVE HOTEL

                    SUBLIME PLEASURES                         

for Relaxation and Recreation

 

Claiming one of the most coveted secluded spots at Ayer’s Cliff in Quebec’s Eastern Townships, Ripplecove Hotel and Spa instantly impresses me with its sublime site. Elegantly fanning out from the hotel is Lake Massawippi’s magnificently expansive waters.

Surrounding the lake is its very own protective companion – the Appalachian Mountains. Together they form a symbiotic symphony of natural beauty; we at Ripplecove are here to applaud it! 

  


   Best of all, I can savour the stunning 
   scene right from the cozy balcony of  
   my lovely room. I’m awestruck. 

 

 

                                                                                                                                      
                                                                                        

Room Mystique

Most of Ripplecove’s 32 rooms (Superior, Deluxe and Suites) nestle strategically to offer serene, close-up views of the lake. All rooms are aesthetically soothing. 

 

 I can hear the rippling water, enjoy the birdsong in the trees, and even observe the daily visit of ducks diving at Ripplecove’s cocooned shoreline.

Ripplecove’s interior beauty

The hotel interior is a tranquil oasis warmed by antiques, paintings and lithographs.  The interior avoids grandiose pretension; rather, its assets of vintage beauty and modern amenities speak softly for themselves.

The sitting room is remarkably restful – akin to a manor library. It was one of my favourite places to just sit and ponder all the old valuable items. 100-year-old books, a rare chess set, photos of Massawippi fishing magic – all harken to a time when life’s rhythm  was as peaceful as the still life paintings hanging on  Ripplecove’s serene walls and as reassuring as the rippling lake outside. 

On the two floors, hallway nooks with darling décor and furniture also offer moments of privacy and respite for reading.

The Stafford family – a timeless legacy of love at Ripplecove

 

Archie and Elizabeth Stafford, the parents of Jeffrey Stafford who now owns the hotel with his wife, Debra – bought the hotel in 1945. At that time, there were no roads or electricity, but the energetic Stafford seniors didn’t mind. They were hearty warm folk who loved the outdoors, always responding to the people’s passion for fishing at Massawippi. The lake's 450-foot depth was a haven for catching huge trout, sturgeon and more; and Ripplecove, a small hotel at the time, happily housed the avid fishermen. 

                                                                                                               

A fire in 1978 turned the beloved "hotel on the cove" into ashes.  Suffice it to say Stafford resilience responded to Ripplecove's call. In 1985, the young Staffords took full ownership of Ripplecove. From fish and fire, financial acumen and fortitude came to the fore as Jeffrey and Debra greatly expanded the once cozy hotel. Not content to rest, the couple added more rooms, and a spa was built. The year was 2003. Still, I couldn't differentiate the original structure from the recent additions. Even modern amenities, including Wifi and in-room luxury can’t obstruct the visual appeal of Ripplecove’s timeless old world charm.  

 

The Stafford signature of love and care continues on generation after generation

Thanks largely to Debra’s impeccable design taste, every space is appealing to the eye and comfortable.  Framed patina photographs detailing family history and Ripplecove's past are displayed on every floor. 

 

I loved discovering them as I wandered around - a feeling of nostalgia creeping in at every corner.That home-away-from-home feeling is omnipresent.

“My wife and I wanted to carry on the spirit and style of those simpler times. Ripplecove is unique, as there is no other hotel in Quebec that has been in family for 71 years.”   Jeffrey Stafford

Is it any wonder, Ripplecove has consistently garnered the illustrious CA/AAA Four-Diamond Lodging Award, and on an annual basis since 1987!  No other hotel in the region can boast that.

Another Ripplecove diamond draw

A true Canadian landmark, Ripplecove is open year-round for four-season enjoyment. Have you ever gone ice fishing? No matter, you can get your free lesson on Saturday in front of the hotel right on the lake. How about skating on the lake and what fun for the family for winter romance to take Ripplecove’s free 2-horse sleigh-ride?

Bonfires and fishing tents, Xmas trees on the lake for happy Yuletide spirit (and to block the wind). See you on the ice!

 

Fabulous friendliness

I love those Ripplecove reception girls! Upon my arrival, Veronique not only welcomed me, but went to my car to fetch my luggage, took me to my second-floor room, showed me the conditioning remote, opened the big closet doors in front of my Queen-size bed to show me the big screen TV, plugged in my laptop, even typed in the password. She smiled and said: “Ms. Snipper, it’s so nice to have you here.”  Then she quickly disappeared, closing the door behind her – no interest in a tip.

I discovered just how willing the staff was to go the extra mile.
 

Stephanie who seems to know how to do everything at once really went the extra mile for me – and what a wet one it was! She followed me out to the beach in her pumps in order to pull the rowboat out for me. Walking on the wet sand – her pumps thoroughly beach-soaked – she gave the boat a heave-ho. There she was wearing her blue Ripplecove uniform waving me goodbye – smiling as if it was pleasant to feel wet sand inside her fancy shoes.

Thanks Stephanie!

The staff fetched one of the new bikes from the back of the lodge (they’re all new; no gear shifts, just braking), then adjusted the seat and handed me a map to direct me to the Tomifobia Trail. Finally, one of the staff walked the bike up the hill for me upon leaving.  

Upon returning to Ripplecove from Tomifobia’s gorgeous walking/bike trail, I dove into the swimming pool.

  
Passing on playing tennis; I was ready to do some serious dining at Ripplecove’s Riverain Restaurant.

Divine Dining at Ripplecove’s Riverain Restaurant

 

No matter that I was not formally dressed; Riverain – which has been garnering its own yearly Four-Diamond Award at Ripplecove since 1991 – is far more interested in creating and serving delicious cuisine rather than judging you by your clothes.  Its team is busy creating in its kitchen a sumptuous gastronomical affair.
                                       
Totally attentive without affectations, the dining staff –  expertly headed by food & beverage director and darling, Éric Bourbonnais – beams hospitality as permanent and pleasing as Lake Massawippi itself. 

Lakeside dining is assured either on the tabled terrace outside or indoors.

                                                
      

Bon appétit!

           

Joris Larigaldie, Riverain’s talented energetic chef  is so creative, his dishes not only look like ‘Daliesque’ artwork, but their colours, textures and amusing combos of surprise offer a whole new experience in savouring presentation and flavours.

 

Joris Larigaldie, Riverain’s talented energetic chef  is so creative, his dishes not only look like ‘Daliesque’ artwork, but their colours, textures and amusing combos of surprise offer a whole new experience in savouring bite feel and taste. I for one was thrilled with the variety of ingredients that went into some dishes.

“I interface with farmers.” His philosophy is about true to the terroir and bringing the terroir into the kitchen – utilizing local products, combining and matching them with their nearby earth relatives.  He explained: “My beef now will be smoked using the highest quality local hay.” He adds spruce/hemlock sprigs to his freshly picked parsnips – makes butter and incredible pumpkin-flavoured mini marshmallows in one of his amazing desserts. “I think food is about emotion and memory. I hope when people taste my dishes, the taste refers to something special in their past” 

Enigmatic and charming, Chef Joris combines traditional French cooking techniques and new ones to create high-end cuisine. He grew up with parents that cooked; his mom owned a restaurant in Paris, and he revealed he spent so much time in the kitchen by her side. He worked in France and England at Michelin-star restaurants, and now Riverain has snagged him. Chef Joris is exciting!

Here is a sampling of my exquisite journey into new taste sensations:  My amuse-bouche (taste teaser) was a small ball-shaped cream puff (profiterole) of lobster and fine herbs, including his daring edible hemlock needles-butter mixed in. It practically melted in my mouth. It was followed by the most awesomely amazing appetizer I have ever tasted: Albacore tuna tataki, green papaya slaw, basil and mint, maple nuoc mam (fish sauce) and peanuts. The hint of raw tuna was done with perfect balance. 

My next choice of appetizer was the confit mini parsnip from Jardin du Quartier, with parsnip puree, hazelnut butter, sea buckthorn jelly and duck jerky.  It’s criminal that someone could conceive such an outstanding cuisine concoction of incomparably wonderful textures. The small parsnips were not overcooked.

My main dish was his tender halibut – another standout. It secretly positioned a rare undercoating: a sliver-thin spread of cauliflower and truffle.

This dish came with green onion, baby lima beans and parsnips with the Jarvis touch of decorating plate corners with delightful surprises. I loved the tiny crispy inch-high sprig of fried kale demurely adorning the mela off to the side.

My meal was paired with a 2010 Chablis premier Cru Vaillons Domaine Jean Dauvissat. By the way Savigny-lès Beaune, les Guettes, Domaine Doueet-naudin (yes, the full name) was a fine balanced Chablis  Riverain has over 3000 bottles, 250 kinds of wine with over 550 labels – the oldest being a 1952 Savigny-lès Beaune, les Guettes, Domaine Doueet-naudin  (a mouthful of a name with a wallet price to match!)

Dessert brought me a tantalizing carrot cake turned up like a teepee. Sliding down its side was swooping home-made Philadelphia ice cream! Then dove into a lemon number with its own teeny tiny lemon marshmallow, wafer and unidentifiable but exquisite-to-the-taste-buds mystery sweet was unforgettable. 

Riverain’s breakfast buffet: a healthy cornucopia of fresh fruit, cereal, yogurt, a variety of addictive, melt-in-your-mouth sweet croissants and seasonal berries bulging out in a big bowl. 

 

You can continue the morning feast by blindfolding your eyes and pointing to the uncluttered gourmet menu. Whatever you have is going to get your tongue wagging a resounding, "mmmm"!

Make your hotel stay and/or restaurant reservations here: www.ripplecove.com

or call (1-800) 668-4296.

Read about my sensational spa experience here: Ripplecove’s Arboressence Spa