NEW HAMPSHIRE’S LAKES REGION: EXCEPTIONAL EXPERIENCES WITHIN A BACKDROP OF NATURAL WONDERS

 

 

Cruises, Hikes, Rural Roaming, Village Exploring

Last year I visited New Hampshire’s Lakes Region, and was profoundly impressed with its rugged beauty. Magnificent loon-filled lakes and mountain forests with walking trails traveled on by humans and critters alike converge to create that “wow” factor in scenic appeal.

The region’s endless treed canopy comes with its own chameleon agenda. Fall turns the region into a riot of color.

                                   When winter arrives, everything glistens white. 

 

Twenty percent of the region is a woodland wonder of birch, oak, hemlock, maple and pine, but it's the lakes that take the lion’s share of sunset splendor.

Free and Easy Living

The Lakes Region is a natural template for rejuvenation. Head for the mountains, linger on the lakes, let out your loon calls, and immerse yourself in farm settings where country roads are lined with colorful clusters of wild flowers, scrappy shrubs and purple wheat grass. 

 I longed for the region's sense-enlivening surprises whose rural mystique makes you want to pack up and move there. And so I returned.

I parked my car to watch wild turkeys waddling along a field.

                  The best sighting was a black bear cub bounding across the road. 

Four Days of Heady Experiences

For this second visit, I turned to the expert knowledge of the friendly folks at the Lakes Region Tourism Association. Amy Landers, Executive Director of the region and her associate, Kim Sperry are angels.  Their guidance was invaluable. Thank you!
 

They presented me with an itinerary that catered to my near-obsessive yen for nature, and fulfilled my quest for culturally authentic milieus of rural life. 
The next four days were packed with experiences that pleased my senses, stimulated my mind and made my spirit soar as high as the bald eagle I spotted during Squam Lakes “Nature of the Lakes Cruise". Fortunately, all places were within an easy 10 to 30-minute reach by car. The route signs are excellent. No GPS needed! 
Visit: www.lakesregion.org

Kim Sperry, Executive Vice President, lakes region Tourism Association

                      Freedom at your feet, Heaven at your head, Scenery in between!

Terra firma, fresh air and a view meant for the gods – that was my reward for taking the 30-minute hike up the west side of Rattlesnake Mountain in Holderness. Its well-groomed 450-foot ascent was easy; even little ones can do it. Bring your dog with you.

                         Visit: www.alltrails.com/trail/us/new-hampshire/rattlesnake-mountain-trail

                    

               

                    Go Gunstock! 

 

Another panoramic open-air site is Gunstock Mountain in Gilford. Celebrating its 80^th anniversary, this place comprises hundreds of acres of beauty. 

There’s a spring-fed lake at the entrance.

A grand variety of year-round outdoor activities has been designed for the entire family, and so not every family member has to be “joined at the hip” in a single activity.

There are fifty downhill ski trails and four major cross country ski trails. An entire flat area at the foot of the escarpment is dedicated to teaching cross-country skiing to children. How smart is that!?

                         For summer adventure, hop on the mountain coaster ride.

Adding to the rush is the zip lining from various heights (4000 feet from the top of the mountain and 3800 feet from the middle of it).

There’s even a “before-you-zip along” mini training session for kids and adults.  A trailer area also accommodates those who wish to summer here. 

             
                An authentic rustic style country lodge has hosted many a wedding.

Gunstock is a gorgeous four-season fun and outdoor recreation. Interestingly, there are four vintage ski jumps that are slated for “resurrection”.

 

I took the chairlift up the 1400-foot mountain, then hiked down Brook trail with Amy Landers.

                        

                                               

                                                                          Visit: www.gunstock.com

Lakes Alive!

When it comes to water, a bountiful bastion of some 1,300 lakes and ponds spread throughout the region. The largest is Lake Winnipesaukee. With an area of 183.90 sq miles and a depth of 212 feet, this majestic lake has 258 islands, and many are lived on.

There’s even a mail boat delivery service – the only one of its kind in North America! A star attraction, Lake Winnipesaukee is best traveled in style. After all, its shores are lined with million-dollar “cottages” (estate mansions is more like it); and so the lake begs for prestige boat travel if you want to live like royalty for a moment. 
And that’s exactly how I traveled when I was booked to ride the Miss Meredith. I pictured myself getting on a humungous cruise boat such as the Mount Washington that travels here, but my mode for riding its waves was even more illustrious. I was escorted onto a handsomely polished mahogany speed boat that was once owned by the wife of Chiang Kai-shek! 

This happened at the Ekal Activity Centre in Meredith. They supply your own captain/guide to take you out. Leaving Church Landing where the Ekal Activity Centre is located, we traveled some 45 minutes along a part of Lake Winnipesaukee, to gape at the imperious houses on Governor’s Island – while pretending we owned one or two of them! 

Captain Jake, myself and the Miss Meredith on Lake Winnipesaukee

This 5-mile pleasure ride was only 35$ US per person. You can actually reserve the boat for your own private group (seats seven comfortably), but you can ask Ekal to charter you one of the same ilk that seats ten people (15$ each) Your Ekal captain will be steering you into lifestyles of the rich and famous on Lake Winnipesaukee – and on a boat once owned by China’s most famous first lady!

Visit: www.ekalactivitycenter.com

Calling all Loon Lovers

Equally thrilling, was the exceptional Squam Lakes “Nature of the Lakes Cruise” in Holderness. This marvelous 90-minute excursion leaves right across from the Science Centre (more about this extraordinary place later). The cruise brings you close to loons without causing them any threat. We rode on a comfy pontoon steered by Margaret, an experienced naturalist who invited us to do our own spotting of bird life. Binoculars were handed out for close-up viewing. 
How thrilling it was to spot a mother loon swimming towards her chick. When they reunited, Margaret explained that the little chick was probably hiding out of sight to avoid danger that her mother had spotted. 

We also saw a bald eagle, and some mergansers and a lone red throated loon that seemed lost in time. Squam Lake was formed by a deep glacier some 12,000 years ago. Its picturesque shoreline extends 60 miles. Margaret handed out a replica of a loon egg and the skull of a bald eagle. 

 

The Loon Preservation Committee monitors loons on New Hampshire’s lakes, studying their habits, rescuing them, examining diseases and they even got the state’s fishing laws changed to prohibit lead jigs which kills loons once swallowed.                                                                         (Click here to read about their work). 

                                     Educational and exhilarating, this cruise is unforgettable.

Visit: www.nhnature.org

Visit: www.loon.org

Garden Glory

Tarbin Gardens is a mother-son labor of love endeavor. I met up with Richard Tarbin and his mother, Jackie – both born in England.To enjoy the gardens, a special Turkish tea is served that makes it way to Tarbin Gardens all the way from Denmark. This typifies the family’s love for the exotic and rare – as seen in the gardens, described as English landscape style gardens.

Aside from lilies, hostas, hydrangeas, and oodles more, they grow china vines, kiwi, quinces, Japanese silver pines, pineapples plants, blue yucca, senna, the seven sons flowering tree and so much more. Still not tea, though!
                                                                    

 

The gardens with their wild-like, non-manicured look are brimming with 1000 species of all kinds of flora sprawled out over five acres.

Every seed and bulb – count 1000 tulips among that -  has been lovingly planted by Richard, a gifted horticulturist who began the garden back in 1978 after 40 bulldozers came in to do away with the massive tangle of trees. 

Greenhouses, ponds, wrought iron benches and a bridle pathway make Tarbin Gardens a rare retreat for serenity amidst fairy-tale flora magic.

 


Homemade scones with Devon clotted cream and jam are also served here. After all, this is an English garden! Bring on the tea!

                                              Visit: www.tarbingardens.com

Environmental Enlightenment

 I was eager to enter into unique love-of-the-land landmarks – the kind that that defy the normal and excite young and old alike, so the Lakes Region Tourism Association suggested Prescott Farm in Belknap County.

Its idyllic pastoral hills, gentle valleys and pastures cover 160 acres. Here, environmentally-conscious educational programs happen with wonderful workshops and play areas for kids in nature.

One such creation includes an outdoor, mini-makeshift “kitchen” with a vintage aluminum sink, pots and pans and tiny antique "burner" for “cooking up” a truly organic meal made from leaves picked off the ground. How imaginative!  

For four months, starting in July,  an array of courses on earthy educational themes are shared by parent, grandparent and child alike.  Start walking!There’s a fall polliwog excursion into the forest, fields and gardens at Prescott, along with mushroom foraging. Much to do and much to learn while journeying into nature.

   What a wonderful black walnut tree - the largest in the county, and it's right here!

So events get more and more original as summer fades. Attend a cider pressing party, an acorn eating class, and don’t overlook the sugar shack where maple syrup is made.



                    

Want to learn how to turn raw sheep’s wool into yarn? You can on October 28^th. Bread and cheese- making are offered, along with sessions on wild forest foods and fall foraging. There was also a three-month herbal series on harvesting for food and medicine that I sure would have loved to have attended. This extraordinary farm is not only wholly dedicated to ecology and the environment, but is intent on integrating us humans into it all; and that’s what makes it special. Environmentally educational, it’s where nature and us all are harmoniously united. 

You don't have to take courses or pay a single dime to explore Prescott Farm's trails, meadows and woods. It’s all free. Do it alone or with your family. 

For those who want to get back to nature and pick up skills to do it, Prescott Farm is the place to take your journey. This non-profit family-owned farm is a utopia!

Visit: www.prescottfarm.org

An Abandoned Village

Another tranquil destination is Canterbury Shaker Village. Founded in 1792, its unique heritage has left a legacy that’s embodied in the site’s 29 historical buildings – 25 of them still stand in their original state...  abandoned beacons of a time long gone.

 


One of the buildings is now used as a museum to display furniture and clothes the Shakers made.

Over 694 acres of outlying farm land, forests, ponds and trails spreads over this serene sanctuary of religious austerity.
The Shaker community practiced celibacy, communalism and confession in the presence of an elder. It’s described as “nuns and monks without the bolts and bars”. 

Yet, despite its strict adherence to the three above-mentioned Cs, the Shaker community loved music, stomp dancing to religious songs, learning how to play all kinds of instruments, even putting on plays.

  

School was obligatory.

Theatrical presentations often took place inside the chapel , but they usually centered around religion. 
Shakers were fascinated with technology, and so they developed innovative ways to be totally self-sufficient with the emphasis on efficiency.

They had electricity, a printing press and stoves.

                                                                                          

Dental care, an infirmary and meeting houses for discussion, printing, box making using cherry wood, baking and spinning were part of a daily routine. 

                                          
The community even had its own firehouse and library.

As my guide Becky explained, the community took in converts and acted as shelters for women whose life during those days could be brutal, if left widowed or homeless. It’s amazing to think that this community lasted over 200 years without the right for women to bear children. Is it any wonder this community of rural-loving folks endured? Its laid-back simplicity hearkens back to bygone days when you could “park” a horse instead of a car, and haul barrels of hay instead of plastic bags.

Guided tours, craft demonstrations, a lovely museum, and a big barn serving locally-made light snacks enliven this historical site.

Visit: www.shakers.org

A Sensational Science Center

Reserve at least two hours to explore the phenomenal Squam Lakes Natural Science Center. Unique exhibits, trails, wetlands, fields and the splendour of Kirkwood Gardens at the entrance (a moving story in itself about its creator) are all palpably inspiring. 

Expanding beautifully over 232 acres, the center is a paradise of sorts; you won't find any concrete buildings here. Accredited by the Association of Zoos & Aquariums, this center has cleverly turned science into a kind of natural Disneyland where games full of rich learning experiences leave an indelible imprint through hands-on participation. Although there are no rides as such, the amount of knob pulling, button pressing, ducking, scrambling and ear phone listening to get answers to all kind of challenging questions – all presented in super creative ways is exciting, even exhilarating. 

Exploring underground life as certain critters do, ducking, climbing into a huge squirrel’s nest, descending slides and enjoying an enormous oversized rope spider web

 -- these are only "raindrops" in the grand scheme of natural science discovery here.

Experience how dynamic our earth is by witnessing “Water Matters”. It consists of 18  water-related exhibits -- all fascinating, but the rainfall one was really ingenious.

There's a centerpiece of kinetic colored sand representing different geographical elements. You can actually play with the sand, molding it to shape your landscape. Hold your hand over it, and your hand becomes a rain maker changing topography. You’ll see how mountains, valleys and hills change as water flows into them. Of course, there really is no water; it’s all in your hand. That’s what I call magical learning.

Aside from the umpteen ecological and environmental workshops offered by the center, there's another educational surprise: a Montessori school right on the premises – the first of its kind in New Hampshire. Called Blue Heron School, it’s nature-based; the entire center becomes a field classroom for the school’s children.

Live animals are here as well, including, two mountain lions, two bears, eight raptors, three minks and two foxes, deer, otters, even coyotes – all in spacious caged habitats, of course. The only animal that wasn't real was the moose poking out near a pond; but you could have fooled me!

Don’t forget to purchase your ticket across the street for the Nature of the Lake Cruise, run by the inimitable Natural Science Center.

Visit: www.www.nature.org

Click here to read about Tilton Inn and Pub & Restaurant

 

LOOKING FOR 1000 ISLANDS AT PARC DE LA RIVIÈRE DES-MILLE- ÎLES

This is one of my favourite parks. It has everything flowing in its favour. Back in 2005, I first discovered the park, and was mesmerized by it size and the myriad of living natural phenomena jumping out before our eyes. Forty-two kilometres in length, it’s a watery bastion for 245 different bird species, animals and fauna with exotic-looking plants that have you believing you’re traveling up the Amazon. An exciting confluence of turns creates surprising vistas that inspire you. It’s an endless watery labyrinth of bountiful beauty that overtakes the small hum of cars in the far distance.

 

Less than a half hour from Montreal, you would never suspect that this gem is actually bordering an urban area. Its jungle-like feel and wide open views to sky and water has its own kind of challenge.

                                                

Can you find 1000 islands poking out of this vast river?  You may need to take that plane you see.

Truth is, you won't find 1000 islands

because this number is a classic example of exaggeration. In fact, there are only 101 islands. But don’t be disappointed; seven islands can be explored. Dock the canoe or kayak on the easy-to access landings and explore the sweet trails laden with nature. You’ll walk back in time, see ruins that once were the foundation of homes built by the rich in between 1935 and 1945. 

 

Celine Dion had a house here, and it still stands with a new owner now living in it.

Each island has its own unique flavour as each is canopied in tree-life: black maples, black willows and Thuya Occidental to name a few trees.  

 

                                                     

 One distinct water plant called Lizard Tails was coming into bloom. Long-stems rose out of the water, leaning over it to reveal slender white flowers hanging like forlorn little lanterns bending downwards. This is a rare aquatic plant.

 

I was accompanied by Fabienne Dupont-Lauzon, in the Communications Department of the park. Paddling in our sturdy canoe, we headed for Kennedy Island. 

Along the way, we passed a delightful family of ducks and a few Canada Geese busy preening themselves along the shore of an island. 

Docking at Kennedy Island, Fabienne pointed out the many games on plaques where you combine letters and words with pictures to name a fish, animals and birds. 

It was so much fun trying to arrive at the winning word. What a great educational way to engage children as parents play along with them.

                              Fabienne and I then paddled to Îles des fraises.

      Here, the rich Sandler family once lived and we saw remnants of their dwelling. 

A broken down chimney now housing the rare Chimney Swift bird was built up to ensure protection of this bird.

 

                   

 Know that wherever you tread, you are walking on ground once inhabited by the Amerindians – the First Nations People where land and water formed their daily home.

I loved this secretive cozy  island separated from Kennedy Island by an enchanting passage of such shallow water; only kayaks can pass through.

Today, four biologists are involved with preservation of all animals, land corrosion, tagging and more. 

 
                          Can you spot those painted turtles sunning on the log?

 

Woodpeckers leave their mark on trees; and a tornado in 2013 left its own legacy as we marveled at the 'tree art sculptures" created by it.

            There's a mystery to discover on each island.

Could this tree be trying

   to tell us something?

 

Three interesting routes allow you to view islands of note. Know that artifacts and the story about this park will come to life within a brand new museum that will open to the public next year. 

The new building will house a permanent exposition, titled
Incroyable, mais vrai!” Themes include occupation of the territory, fishing history and so much more, Artifacts from the past, and plant and animal specimens will be on display. Surprising anecdotes and games involving touch screens will make learning about this grand park a lot of fun.

A BIG THANKS TO FABIENNE –  a fun guide whose paddling prowess embodies the power of this wonderful park.

Rabaska fun, camps, cruises, ice fishing, and so many exciting innovative activities to enjoy!

  

CLICK HERE TO READ MORE ABOUT THIS PARK

The website is: www.parc-mille-iles.qc.ca

THE ORNITHOLOGIST (Directed by João Pedro Rodrigues) ****

When Fernando, an ornithologist glides his kayak down a stunning canyon in a remote wild area of Portugal, his life takes a complete turn as - does his kayak.

It tips over in some nasty rapids. Meeting two Lesbian Chinese girls, his fate ends up at their mercy.

He is tied up and basically abused, but he escapes. He is left with nothing except stealing his bag, but his meds are gone, and that is serious. He encounters too many strange things, including a person that he ends of making love to and some bizarre rituals.

His transformation becomes a mystical one that involves a religious series of subtle and not so subtle events with dramatic consequences. The film is stunning to watch, but moving from realism into fantasy to create symbolism, becomes a tad incredulous. Though I knew his redemption would involve revisiting a young man whom he left for dead, plot probability was weak. But I loved the scenery and tranquility in the cinematic art shots.

Unearthing the mysteries of the mushroom

I  truly had a “SensoriuM” revelation on this amazing mushroom walk, given by Alexis Williams. I was so impressed with Sensorium's mission – to bring to fellow SensoriuM followers the chance to discover through our senses, both the physical and taste experience which we either ignore or know very little about.  Natalie, an engaging performance artist whose work involves space and place discovery and her partner Eric – a rock climber during summer and winter (ice climbing mountaineer too) arranged the car pooling up to Montreal’s Morgan Arboretum in Ste-Anne-de-Bellevue. It was exceptionally well organized. The couple’s commitment to what they do (no one pays them) is palatable. I truly admire their spirit and innovative sharing approach that allows others the opportunity for holistic and stimulating discovery at every SensoriuM event. 

This particular outing introduced us (we numbered over 20 eager scouts strong) to mushroom maven and guru gal herself – the awesome Alexis Williams.

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Although Alexis claims she isn’t a scientist, but rather a passionate forger, grower, eater and artist focused on mushrooms, her  vast knowledge thoroughly impressed us as did her primordial instincts, eagle eye and astounding fact retention regarding the complexities of the oft misunderstood and underappreciated world of the mysterious mushroom. She started by showing us her foraging tools: a basket, a special knife, an axe, her portable mushroom guide, and more. She explained  us the many ways different species multiply and how they live off trees, sometimes even eating the bark, and their role in creating the very soil we walk on. 

In fact, as we tread through the Arboretum’s Climax Forest in the grey fall wet weather – yes, it was a rainy day, she pointed out that the leaves we were walking on would disappear as compost, thanks to the mushrooms manner of decomposing that which falls on the ground. It was a day of colour with the fall leaves and the mushrooms; the hours flew by.  

She encouraged us to find mushrooms, and that we did. It was an interactive adventure that each of us took as we went on our discovery journey finding mushrooms with Alexis leading the way  - eyes peeled to the ground or looking waist-high as we witnessed tree trunks rising tall and those that had fallen.  

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I had no idea that the world is populated with 5million different kinds of mushrooms and that there are 13 sex genders to mushrooms. On this walk, we had a “taste” of such mushroom mania; a myriad of mushrooms that delighted our senses. They provided a feast for the eyes; we also touched them, and smelled them and stood in wonder at the brilliant hues, even the dark brown brilliant ones. I loved the turkey tail mushroom with their fanning feature enhanced by rippling lines hued in turquoise. The inky capped one that left within two short days an inky trail at its life end was petite but impressive. In fact, Alexis has used its ink to dye her stockings. She was wearing one such pair with its brown stripes – thanks to this inky little mushroom. The disco lemonade mushroom with its brilliant tiny yellow spots clinging to down-on-the-ground tree trunks was an Alexis' favourite.  

Then there were the puff ball ones. We had fun playing with them. They emitted a surprising smoky plume from their tops as we squeezed them.  A row of black deadman’s fingers brazenly poked up from a log – each one seemed to be “giving us the finger” and the sky above. Far more regal was the artist conch mushroom; it was most impressive as it robustly juts out from trees. Alexis had etched a wonderful series of tiny criss-cross patterns in the one she owns. She explained that she can use it as a slow cooker by burrowing a hole in it, and that inside its layers is fluff. 

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There was the honey mushroom, the spongy coral mushroom and so many more – some not edible – others were. 

As we reluctantly headed back to the chalet to enjoy the home brewed chaga mushroom tea (the big mushroom soaking in the big pot), we were most happy. We had gone on a magical mushroom tour set me on my own private journey to discover more next time I tread the forest floor. 

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Below is a marvellous sampling of the prints Alexis makes from the mushrooms she photographs and turns into art. She’s an intrepid mushroom collector who utilizes every spore to grow more mushrooms; she makes complete use of these fascinating ‘creatures’. Their secrets will come out of hiding with Alexis at the helm.

Definition of a climax forest: 

Climax vegetation is the vegetation which establishes itself on a given site for given climatic conditions in the absence of major disturbance after a long time. Tropical evergreen forest is an example of climax vegetation, as are temperate forests, tundra, savannas, grassland etcetera... 

  

The SensoriuM is a collaborative artistic platform founded by multimedia and performance artist Natalie Doonan in Montreal, Canada in 2011. Le / The SensoriuM is an alternative tourism bureau of sorts that re-conceptualizes consumption through active participation in the production of social space. Le / TheSensoriuM presents participatory art performances with the aim of generating conversation. Through tours and tastings led by artists, participants are engaged viscerally, creating spaces for discussion. Tours and tastings are two major forms through which stories about place proliferate and Le / The SensoriuM offers chances to unsettle staid narratives. This approach to collective learning through walking and eating is a new take on an old theme. For example, Aristotle founded the Lyceum, a school of philosophy, in Athens circa 335 BCE. It is said that on the grounds of this property, he established the first zoo and the first botanical gardens. These became the field for his famous investigations in the natural sciences. In the mornings, Aristotle walked and exchanged knowledge with his students through discussion and debate in the gardens. This was continued through lunch, as they ate together. Aristotle’s ambling academy became known as ‘the peripatetic school,’ drawing from the Greek for ‘walking about.’ Today, the city becomes the field for peripatetic and culinary investigations. 

 

The purpose of Le / The SensoriuM is thus to activate public space through physical occupation and through open, ongoing exchange. As authors Jody Emel and Jennifer Wolch say: "Our political project is the creation of many forms of shared space.” 



For more information on the SensoriuM go to:  http://www.lesensorium.com   

or email /  info@lesensorium.com  

EXPLORING MONT ROYAL: A MONTREAL TREASURE

Mont Royal is smack in the middle of Montreal and forms the crowning landmark of  nature and man-made landmarks that beckons the entire city to come and have fun. Walking through its forested area on path or on the winter trails summer, fall, spring, and the cross-country skiing is most satisfying for all ranges of accomplishment - beginner and expert.
Did you know that when you enjoy this vast mountain where you can hike a half hour or 3 hours, your feet are treading a large volcanic-related incline?
Part of the Monteregian Hills noted for their greenery.



 This particular gentle mountain consists of three peak:: Colline de la Croix (or Mont Royal proper) at 233 m (764 ft), Colline d' Outremont (or Mount Murray, in the borough of  Outremont at 211 m (692 ft), and Westmount Summit at 201 m (659 ft) above sea level. The lookout is fabulous. Climb the 300 steps if you approach it from Pine Avenue.

The first Nations people used to make fires here. Nowadays, you can barbecue, and enjoy a great picnic by its man-made lake, called Lac Castor (Beaver Lake; no beavers here, just ducks).

This body of water is a wonderful way to enjoy the breeze and rippling water. I hopped on a row boat to row around this lovely little lake. It’s 200 metres (660 ft) in length and of 150 metres (490 ft) in width Beaver Lake is shaped like a four-leaf clover. Shallow, it is emptied in winter to serve as outdoor rink. Great recreational, activities including biking, tobogganing, bird watching and even a ghost tour are part of the fun.
The statues have their own history, so check out this website below for all information.
The website is: www.montreal.com/parks/mtroyal.html

Lots of photos to enjoy on the website.