GEORGIA ON MY MIND

Waterfall Wonder, Mountain Mania and Idyllic Gardens

Dahlonega (population nearing 7000) in Lumpkin County, North Georgia was once actively mined for its plethora of gold. Formerly called, Talonga, the name was changed to Dahlonega by Georgia's General Assembly on December 25th, 1873. This new name comes from the Cherokee word, "Dahlonega", meaning 'yellow' or 'gold'.

Today, an imposing gold museum strides near Dahlonega’s darling picturesque square – a gem in its own right.
Most of the gold in Dahlonega is still underground (too hard to extract as the main vein runs through the town). Nevertheless, this popular town boasts another kind of timeless opulence in its above ground beauty: nature spreads out from the town  into a bounteous bastion of connecting counties.

                                                             

The Camerons (to my left)

Visiting the Camerons, my long time dear friends who home half of the year in the area was wonderful. They're great company, and aside from being remarkably hospitable, superb cooks and keenly knowledgeable about the area, both Bobby and Eileen are incredibly fit; they defy the stereotypic image of a retired couple. Suffice it to say the lure of the rocking chair is non-existent for them. This dynamic duo jogs miles almost every day, and is constantly on the go – usually in an uphill fast-moving direction.

I wanted to strengthen my stamina and felt fortunate to have them as my guides. Bobby knows I love nature, and so foremost on the agenda was hiking.

Waterfalls abound here and are accessible as they spill down Smokey Mountain’s impressive range. Many seem to spoke out from Dahlonega within a 40-minute drive time. 

Mountain Climes

First stop was an 8-mile approach trail starting at Amicolola Falls which leads to Springer Mountain where the Appalachian Trail begins.

What they didn’t tell me was the over 400 steps that were waiting for us to climb. A piece of cake for them, but tough for me, the end result was exhilarating, and we avoided any sweat bath along the way; the tall old trees of this area provided ample shade during most of the ascent. Bobby mentioned many of these trees names, including the sturdy, solid white pine, hemlock, poplar, and many more species. We even came upon sassafras. The trail certainly had a lot of rocky areas, but it was well marked with white “blazes” (Bobby taught me that moniker) – white shallow gouges on the surface of tree trunks to guide all hikers.

Tree shaped by Indians to point out a direction

Another climb consisted of a 2-mile easy ascent. It brought us to Preacher Rock - part of the Appalachian trail. Here folks used to get married. At the top, the Smokey Mountains with their bluish hue halo loomed in the distance; it was inspiring to behold. Preacher Rock’s lofty lofty location - also part of the Appalachian Trail - beckons from Suches, an old farming community now sparsely populated and full of tumble-down barns buried in valleys of green.

Bring on the Grits and Serve them in a Gourd

After so much physical activity, it was time for me to find an excuse to get even fatter.

Bobby and Eileen took me to so many wonderful places, including The Gourd Place in Sautee Nachoochee. Here gourds have been crafted into amazing utility-ware, art and decor - even musical instruments -  all on display for purchasing. This place makes you smile. Eileen did when she plunked a huge pumpkin gourd over my head!

Priscilla Wilson and Janice Lymburner

 Priscilla Wilson and Janice Lymburner are the two eccentric women who opened this one-of-a-kind boutique. Their memoir, called Gourd Girls tells their remarkable story and proves them to be pioneers in the art of the gourd. It also shows them to be made of grit.

 Speaking of grit...

We also went to Nora Mill Granary in Helen, Georgia. It’s an 1876 grist mill, sitting alongside the Chattahoochee River. 

The mill still uses the original 1500-lb French Burr Stones for grinding for whole grain products.

 You can buy all kinds of jams, jellies, local honey and candies and more there. Once you taste their grits (they have tasting there) you go gaga over the grits. I got gong –ho addictive on those grits! Dear Bobby made them for  almost every day for breakfast.  

Titanic Waterfalls

Tallulah Gorge State Park covers 2689 acres with trails that both skirt the rim of the gorge or descend to its floor where its river flows. Much information about this extraordinary wildlife and the park’s history can be enjoyed in a video within the Jane Hurt Yarn Interpretive Center.  Discovering this outdoor world wonder, I marveled at its five spectacular cascading falls - best viewed from a very sturdy suspension bridge that admittedly challenged my fear of heights. 

Luckily, I had Bobby and Eileen to hold my hand as I traveled at a snail-pace across it.  One of these falls was called “hurricane” - an apt name for the fierce downward force of the water. Standing and looking down from the bridge was a miraculous moment for us all. It is so compelling to see the turbulent endless flow; the rush of water was deafening rush. And you are right in the middle - high up above it!

On July 18, 1970, a 65-year-old Karl Wallenda performed a high-wire walk across the gorge. About 30,000 people from around the world came to watch Wallenda’s performance which included two headstands as he crossed the quarter-mile-wide gap! You can still see one of the cranes used for his death-defying act.

KAYAKING 

Without a doubt, Bobby and Eileen had to put on hold their usual tubing and kayaking into rapids. Having never stepped into a kayak before, I eagerly wanted to embrace this method of traversing water,  but when things are calm, rather than using a canoe or rowboat.

Bobby loaded up the kayaks

 I fell in love with the ease and gentleness of the kayak. We went to two lake areas to do this. One was at Vogel Park and the other at Lake Winfield Scott, near Suches. Tranquil and quiet, Winfield Scott Park also allows for swimming right off the dock and a walk around its lake perimeter.

 Gibbs Gardens...24 ponds, 32 bridges, and 19 waterfalls

The serenity continued when, on my last day, Eileen and I visited Gibbs Gardens. This private sanctuary of floral beauty is owned by Mr. Jim Gibbs himself who generously opened his impressive gardens to the public in 2012.

His manor home can be seen from the outside by visitors who pause to rest on benches placed near one of the facades. The house and gardens' 220 acres include a beautiful stream in this valley haven.  

Eileen and I lingered at the Japanese section in the Valley Gardens section.

   

Most captivating was the endless parade of day lilies. Dazzling shades of orange and yellow greeted our eyes. We hit “gold” with this special exhibit.

Many years ago, I wrote a song titled “Mountain Girl". I feel it apt to share it with you after this unforgettable visit to this Appalachian region – made all the sweeter because my dear friends (whom I call family) shared it with me.

 

Cap Saint-Jacques in May

It was a wonderful May day,so I decided it was time to give my dog, Zak his moment in the sun at the Cap. What a lovely day! Not only was the scenery so restful, but the trees were alive with birdsong.

Water and  lush growth paired up to create splendid views at different spots on the trail we were on.

 

     I spotted a small yellow one among many other different ones of all sizes and areas of water that attracted a chipmunk that was burrowing under a little log. He was camera shy for sure.

Yes, the black flies were out, and it is tic season, so if you do go, cover yourself well, and ensure you dog stays on leash on the paths they are permitted to enjoy. Zak had a great time as we walked for about an hour, ending at a picnic spot.

The skies eventually grew overcast, but I wanted to continue on more trails, and Zak seemed to want to stay too.

 The variety of growth is startling. All kinds of trees 

 mix together side by side. I think this contrast in size and species is a visual delight. 

Within a 20-minute ride from Montreal, you will enter the splendour of it all. Enjoy the vast body of water: Rivière de la Prairie with and Ile-Bizard on one side and Oka at its perimeters. This place is gorgeous!

Read about my previous visits in winter and summer to Cap Saint-Jacques.
https://sntravelandartswithoutborders.blogspot.ca/2017/07/a-summery-day-for-my-doggy-at-cap-saint.html#.WwSPNSAh3IU
https://sntravelandartswithoutborders.blogspot.ca/2017/02/sunny-skiing-on-smooth-trails-in-cap.html#.WwSPuiAh3IU

GAUGUIN (Directed by Edouard Delduc) **

When the impoverished painter lands in Tahiti, his misery continues. He can’t sell his paintings; he lives in a rain-drenched hut of sorts; has a heart attack and finds betrayal and disappointment at every turn. Only his wife brings him pleasure; she is his escape from woes, and his muse. Sounds like good movie material, right? Unfortunately, the film is boring; most parts show him obsessively painting her in all kind of poses or suffering from cold - with respites of fun playing with the children (a scene that went on far too long). Still, it would seem that the stifled feeling plaguing him in Paris was relieved somewhat in his new life. But in the end, nothing really could cheer up this man. Vincent Cassel played the painter’s depression and elation with equal élan and plausible passion. Gauguin was meant to live in nature. Simplicity and a beautiful young woman were his bedfellows.  The film was silly at times and presented itself like a collage piecing together parts of Gauguin’s genius and temperament while in Tahiti. The biopic pales in hue compared to the vivid colours in his paintings. 

The Comical and the Serious with Mozart and Haydn

Bourgie Hall, Sunday, May 6th, 2 pm

A Thrilling Group of Guest Artists

Arion closed its 37^th concert season with remarkable vivacity and outstanding playing – all enhanced by really funny entertaining moments. Mozart and Haydn are a scintillating match for this magnificent orchestra; they handle music’s humour with wit; and gravity with equal emotional understanding.

Guest soprano, Andréanne Brisson Paquin has a voice that beautifully reaches the high notes. Her tone is exquisite; her animated manner worked well as she took over the part of Clorinda, singing Mozart’s Air Vorrei spiegarvi, Oh Dio. I loved the oboe seduction that played out as Daniel Lanthier doubled as oboist and lothario as well. Using his instrument and his gestures to try to win over Clorinda, was highly entertaining and illustrative of the scene. Both singer and oboist interpreted this segment perfectly. Ms. Paquin’s acting was great as witnessed when she sung Suzanna in Mozart’s Air Al desio di chi t’adora.

Another colourful treat in this concert was the performance by horn player, Pierre-Antoine Tremblay. He demonstrated so many different textures with varied contrasts of expression. His breath control and musicality was most impressive during his performance of Mozart’s Horn Concerto in E-flat major, K.447.

Arion Baroque Orchestra certainly chose the right guest artist to act out various parts of the program. Lorenzo Coppola vividly demonstrated musical moments in various works performed by the orchestra. He enacted anger, sullenness, pain, love, and more. At one point Mr. Lorenzo galloped across the stage with an extract form the orchestra to show the instruments rallied together in a hunting scene with the horn leading the musical fray. At another point he jumped across and chair, even flung his belly across it miming swimming to show yet another emotional moment in the music of a particular piece. His historical clarinet of two registers was also the brunt of jokes he made, but his playing was anything but funny. He is a true performer whose varied agile talents, both amuse educate us about various passages. They proved far more enlightening because of his contextual explanations of the scenes and characters. Next time, a bit of English interspersed with his many explanations would be most welcome. He is a character that surely Mozart would have loved.

The final work by Haydn – Symphony Number 76 in B-flat major showed dashingly the orchestra’s incredible versatility and musicality. This work is exciting and technically demanding. The bassoon and flute were inspiring in the first movement, and it just got more and more godly as the work played on. This work is not heard as often as is Haydn’s Surprise Symphony.

Finally, the closing concert had its own personal Arion moment of sadness. Concertmaster and first violinist Chantal Rémillard is embarking on a new chapter in her life. The concert was her last with Arion. One of the four founding members of the orchestra,  Ms. Rémillard will be missed by everyone. This concert must have been a deeply bitter sweet moment for her; she is leaving the orchestra to retire. Her student, Tanya LaPierrière who plays second violin in the orchestra, gave a moving face-to face farewell to Ms. Rémillard. I just wish this concert had been recorded for it was absolutely timeless.

LEANING INTO THE WIND (Directed by Thomas Riedelsheimer) ****

Nature is everything for this amazing artist who is wholly integrated into the vagaries of the ground. It is a vibrant journey through the diverse layers of Andy Goldsworthy's world. From Brazil’s poverty to urban Edinburgh and London to the South of France and New England, each environment he encounters becomes a fresh kaleidoscopic canvas for his art. A lushly-visualized travelogue where yellow leaves decorate the dead tree trunk of an elm, where poppies cover his hand like a glove. Everywhere he goes. He leaves his own personal memory imprint by lying on the ground or at the top fo stairs or on a sidewalk just before rain or snow comes to cover up his body outline. A remarkable man of integrity. He climbs across trees, crawls into a branch infested tangle in water in Gabon, and walks through an urban hedge. He is a true artist who refuses to reinvent nature’s natural gifts to express his own artistry.

FESTIVAL ACCÈS ASIE

Over 70 artists will be performing, giving workshops and more in the sensational events that number twenty. Theatre, dance, music, even a day of feasting on Afghan food is on the plate.  Interdisciplinary concerts that combine different arts is sure to inspire.

Khosro Berahmandi and me

 Khosro Berahmandi, artistic director of this 23-year-old festival that coincides with Asian Heritage Month in Montreal and North America. It brings together all communities of various backgrounds while shining the light on Asian culture and its various artistic expressions.

The opening festival cocktail night featured a jaw-dropping performance of duo of Golestan with oud-master Nazih Borish and percussionist, Ziya Tabassian. The actual group comprises four musicians, but for the festival Marina Salonga will guest with the group. She is a multi-disciplinary dance, and on Moay18th at 8 pm she will be performing with Golestan, improvising to several songs performing gypsy fusion style.

  Borish and Zyia Tabassian

There is something for everyone in this festival so check out the website: www.accesasie.com. Order your tickets now.  Concerts and events run from May 1^st to May 27^th, and are at various venues throughout Montreal. Call (514) 298-0757.

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STRINGS OF ROMANCE: EXPRESSIVE MAGNIFICENCE

Bourgie Hall, May 12^th, 2 p.m.

 presented by Montreal's Centre Kabir

This exhilarating concert in two parts showed off the incredible technique and passion of  three brilliant musicians:  sitarist, Shujajaat Khan and tabla players Indranil Mallick and Osbert Lyall. The sitar playing was so impeccable as Mr. Khan created varying rhythms and speeds, often reaching implausible lightning-speed force where his hand became a blur of movement.  His stamina is off the charts!

 Likewise for the wizard-like ta

bla performers - their synchronicity with the sitar was extraordinary - jaw-dropping, yet deceptively effortless in execution. Their thunderous “hammering” on the taut skin of the paired tabla for each  Mr. Lyall told me that all three had never played together before this concert.

The post-intermission segment  (which by the way was preceded with chai tea and rusk down in Bourgie’s lobby) featured Mr Khan singing both a love song praising his lover’s eyes, followed by a religious ode in two parts to one of the Hindu gods. I had to ask someone sitting beside me what the lyric was about in both songs – a shame we were not briefly told a bit about each song.

Part of Accès Asie Festival, this outstanding concert is eternally imprinted in my soul.

MORGAN ARBORETUM: A MYRIAD OF TREES TO TREAD AMONG

Majestic Growth in a Mature Forest Magically Enchants the Visitor

Morgan Arboretum (40 minutes from downtown Montreal) owned by McGill University since 1945, took over a mighty spread of land that once belonged to the wealthy Morgan family in Sainte-Anne-de-Bellevue. A staggering 600 acres of formidable forest encompass this tranquil haven brimming with many natural gifts – most notably –  40 different native Montreal species, and  many more from other parts of Canada, including exotics from around the world.

 I set off April 27th, knowing the ground might be wet from the rain; it had been a rainy week. Still, I wanted to learn what I could about this tremendous tree-towering site. Along with the public, it’s often frequented by students involved with various research projects from the Macdonald Campus.

There are eight  easy, well-maintained walking  trails, ranging from 

1 to 5.8 kilometres 

 Three of them allow dogs off leash, but only after each dog has been evaluated by the Arboretum's expert in dog behaviour and sociability to ensure safety for all.

I meandered along a 2-kilometre-patch loop of sorts which brought me to forests, plantations and collections – the latter including the stunning Canada Birch Trail (more about that later).

Of course the Forest Section offered dominant species that most of us come across in urban and country landscapes.

The Blossom Corner – part of the Collections – featured magnolias, linden, willow and virburnum. Also growing within the Collections was the Dale Field where eye-catching exotics captured my attention, such as the Sassafras, Honey-locust, Sicamore and Muscle-wood. Still the Douglas fir and larch  plantations were not slouches – despite the fancy names of the others. Suffice it to say the Arboretum is a lush, gorgeous landmark of greenery and every colour in between, but there are more muted hues at this time of year. Home to hundreds of locally grown deciduous, coniferous and flowering trees, the Arboretum is a lovely place to linger.

A willow tree in the Blossom Corner

 There's a vast variety of shrubs, most from Quebec, and Southernn Ontario, but  also from Asia.  Woodland blooms were  shyly peeking out of the ground as they greeted spring; others, like the extraordinary fire bush were audaciously visible.

Colt's foot

Fire bush

A birch stands over the quarry

Anne Godbout

I was being guided around by Anne Godbout, a keenly knowledgeable botanist, who has been a liaison officer for twenty-two years with the Arboretum. She led me to these above-mentioned distinct areas, starting with a forest mix of oak, hemlock, maple, pine, fir, spruce, ash, hickory and hemlock – to mention only a few species. Anne explained that 15%  of the tree growth encompasses plantations and 5% is collections, such as the Blossom Centre where  flowering trees and shrubs thrive so well; this special spot has its own micro-climate. 

The fact that there are twenty different soil types accounts for such proliferation of growth.  

Anne pointed out two different types of magnolia trees one from China, and the other is native to Southern Ontario. “We even have a single tulip tree here, Anne revealed. “We also have buckthorns and  native butternut trees along with all kind of fruit trees, like the  Canada plum and crab apple – of particular attraction to the birds”. There are more than 180 bird species here and; the trees make for great feeding and nesting. Even at this early spring time, there's nature everywhere. My senses were awakened in a variety of ways. 

I even saw a garter snake!

Barred owl

A feast for the ears and eyes with scents such as the pepper we smelled in one small spot transported me to another world.

        A lone Japanese lilac in the Blossom Corner, waiting to sprout its cluster of flowers, exuded imminent exotica

A Paper Birch-Obsessed Professor Leaves a Legendary Trail

Fifty years ago, after Dean W.H. Brittain's retirement (1934-1955) from Macdonald College; this celebrated founder of the Arboretum dedicated his life to studying paper birch trees. For him, this tree was a true national emblem. He traveled all across Canada with his collaborator, Professor A.R.C. Jones by plane barge, diesel tug and small riverboats and car, collecting birch tree seedlings. 

They eventually were transplanted here. 

This work led to the dedication of the Arboretum’s Centennial Birch trail in 1967. Last as part of Canada’s 150^th celebrations, special projects offering food and shelter to wildlife contributed to the revitalization of the trail, fittingly renamed, the Canada 150 Trail. A newly created copse and unique branchery are just some of the conservation projects that spotlight Canada’s natural historical legacy while ensuring longevity of this wondrously white-trucked trail for every generation to cherish.

A Salamander in the Hand Assures Safety

The peeping and cackling sounds I heard came from the peepers and wood frog species that live in the quarry. The shrill peeping sound that rung through the trees weren’t birds but spiny peeper frogs that live in the big pond. There are lots of wetlands at the Arboretum. I got a few soakers myself. Dry or on water, the mix harmonizes in this magical dynamic ecosystem, and sometimes humans can help Mother Nature along, especially if there’s a road blocking the natural course of things. Here’s one example: Within the past few years, Anne described a unique project that truly unites amphibians to human hands.” Every night for these past two weeks and on, we carry salamander and frog and newts by hands from the forest across the road to protect them as they make their way to the big pond down the hill to lay their eggs which happens at the end of April.”  

Anne’s, pleasant manner, patience and explanations brought me closer to contemplating the Arboretum – a gentle giant of growth.  And as I pondered the power of this tree kingdom, I realized the discoveries are endless, if not magical here. One particular comment made by Anne poignantly proved this:

 “Trees are connected underground in a network with fungi. The mature trees nurture their young and some conifers exchange sugars with deciduous trees seasonally.”

It’s a mutually symbiotic process that ensures growth even between different species. (Read more about it on the website).

Indeed the Arboretum has miracles both seen and unseen; it’s a mysterious realm that beckons us back again and again to explore.

The website: www.morganarboretum.org.  It’s richly-informative. It includes easy-to-understand newsletters which make learning about the rich diversity of the Arboretum, guardianship and all projects most enjoyable.

For example: if you want to know more about how trees communicate and support one another underground via a fungal mycelia, go to the website, then click on  publications, and scroll to leaflets; choose the issue, fall 2016. The article about this natural neuro-type transmission is titled: Seeing the forest through the trees.  

The Arboretums' literature is excellent. Get the  trail map, and  make sure to grab the yellow Discovery Map. It's excellent!

An exciting variety of  activities for the public, including all kinds of interesting tours and learning experiences happen throughout the year – as many as four per month.

I want to attend “ Survive in the Wild Outing: Useful Plants

May 13th from 10 am to12 pm..

Call the Arboretum a: (514) 398-7811.

The address is: 150 Pine Street, Sainte-Anne-de-Bellevue, Quebec, H9X 3V9.

Thank you Anne for making everything so enjoyable!